I've been feeling all Melbourne-sick after listening to The Drones, whose singer, Gareth Liddiard, has a blistering Aussie accent. We used to got to this bar in North Fitzroy near Paul's house, which had a fig tree in the garden out back. Sitting outside at night, in the crazy heat, a little drunk and tasting my first fresh fig.

I grilled these figs with a little bastard sugar and served them with vanilla quark. Quark is actually a very soft cheese, but it tastes more like thick yoghurt. So so good!